Pable’s adventure in Japan stumbled upon a rare treasure when we were met with Kyoto Research Institute. Pable’s representative, Aryenda Atma, met with one of the research associates of Kyoto Research Institute, Misa Murata. Misa Murata offered to meet at one of the oldest Wagashi store in Kyoto. Wagashi (和菓子) refers to traditional Japanese crafted sweets, often made with plant-based ingredients like rice, beans, and agar, and are frequently enjoyed with green tea. Wagashi are not only a treat for the taste buds but also an art form, with their beautiful designs often reflecting the seasons and nature. Over these sweets wrapped in story-telling and aesthetics, Misa Murata shared the story of Kyoto Research Institute.
Kyoto Research Institute is an institution that accommodates and facilitates the learning process about the rich natural resources and traditional Japanese techniques that they call “heritage materials”. Based in Kyoto, home to traditional Japanese culture, their mission is to research, educate, and inspire the application of heritage materials in everyday life more sustainably. Kyoto Research Institute emphasizes that their role is not to create innovation, but rather to rediscover forgotten values from Japanese tradition.
Kyoto Research Institute was born from the concern that Japanese heritage practices were not being used optimally according to their purpose. This is due to limitations in understanding the language and culture, and because they are considered impractical in the present day. This is why passing the torch to Japanese young generations is especially important, moreover in the face of increasingly worrying environmental conditions, the local and global community is very likely to learn from the Japanese heritage way of life, because these practices are inherently sustainable and regenerative. However, this heritage is not enough to just be studied and written about, but also needs to be lived and practiced. Kyoto Research Institute was originally established as an extension of the ideas of Momoko Nakamura, the founder, who studied the fields of food and gastronomy. However, Kyoto Research Institute today has evolved into an umbrella for various fields with a very broad spectrum. Therefore, Kyoto Research Institute houses and grows thanks to researchers and experts from various sectors.
Their research is in the hyper-local realm, using ethnographic methods –direct neck-deep observation– by extracting information from local wisdom. The information is then processed by experts in the field, which then produces findings that can support the application of heritage materials for the global community.
In conducting research, the Kyoto Research Institute divides its approach into three categories; environmental sustainability, operational sustainability, and cultural sustainability. Environmental sustainability discusses issues of climate, biodiversity, agriculture, and energy. Operational sustainability discusses policy formation. Meanwhile, cultural sustainability focuses on social issues such as education, public infrastructure, arts, and community.
Misa Murata told Pable that to understand the Japanese art of living, one should not look further than the shoji – the very symbol of Japanese design application based on its people’s sensitivity to light, seasons, and space . Shoji is the screen used as separation in every Japanese traditional house, typically made of wooden frame and sheets of translucent paper. Shoji can function as a window or a door, not only to protect the house but also to allow good air circulation and enough sunlight to enter the house. This represents the values of simplicity, impermanence, and harmony with nature, which are the core principles of Japanese traditional aesthetics.
Misa Murata herself is a tea herbalist, experimenting and exploring the richness of Japanese herbs and turning them into enjoyable refreshments. She had worked with Indonesian mixologist Dholy Husada, where they held a workshop in Jamu mixing –Jamu, a traditional Indonesian herbal drink with medicinal properties. Kyoto Research Institute is an umbrella under which Misa Murata can contribute to the notion of “heritage materials”.
Kyoto Research Institute bases its values on “ishokujyu” which means “to live” or “to create living”. “Ishokujyu” consists of three words which when separated, mean clothing (i), food (shoku), and home (jyu), as a symbol of the three sectors that make up the Japanese art of living. This concept sounds familiar because in Indonesian, a similar concept also exists; sandang-pangan-papan. As fundamental needs in survival, these three pairs are important. The beauty of it is how these three things have evolved from needs, into a kind of means of making life more meaningful – to create living.
For their upcoming project, Kyoto Research Institute is going to hold an exhibition on traditional Japanese farmer workwear throughout history. The items they are going to exhibit are made of natural fibers native of Japan, and has been utilized for a long time by farmers, namely:
- Hemp (asa – 麻): Breathable and quick-drying; ideal for hot and humid climates.
- Cotton (men – 綿): Became more common after the Edo period; soft, easy to dye and patch.
- Ramie (karamushi – 苧麻): Similar to hemp, strong and durable.
- Straw (wara – 藁): Used for hats, sandals, and raincoats.
This exhibition will also shed light on the relation between clothing and Japanese philosophy. Traditional farmer wear in Japan was not just practical —it reflected a deep frugality, resourcefulness, and respect for materials that are rooted in Japanese society. Every piece of clothing had a life, and every stitch told a story. For example, nowadays, boro and sashiko –Japanese traditional patchwork and stitching methods– are appreciated globally as both craft and philosophy.
Pable feels fortunate to be able to sit down and share stories with Kyoto Research Institute, because we were able to draw a line of similarity and alignment between Pable and Kyoto Research Institute; that rediscovering traditional culture and local wisdom means bringing back the practices of sustainability and regeneration of a community. Together, the goal of making the earth better seems no longer difficult.
